The new movie The Brutalist, starring Adrien Brody, Felicity Jones, and Guy Pearce is a great place to start exploring Brutalist jewelry design.
The film is creating quite a buzz and is up for 10 Academy Awards. It tells the story of a Hungarian immigrant set against a major architectural movement called Brutalism. Read a review of the film at In Their Own League. The Brutalist style emerged post-World War II and its innovative spirit spawned a revolution in jewelry design. Brutalism remains as controversial today as it was then.
Brutalism emerged in England in the late 1940s, rooted in the International School of Modern Architecture popularized by Le Corbusier. The term “Brutalism” comes from the French phrase for raw concrete, béton brut.
Architect Alison Smithson first used the term to describe her design for a house in England. Although that design was never built, the Smithdon School in Hunstanton, England, by her and her husband, Peter Smithson, became one of the earliest examples of Brutalist architecture.
Brutalist architecture is defined by its massive forms, exposed raw materials like concrete, and a lack of decorative finishes. While raw concrete is a hallmark, Brutalist buildings also incorporate materials such as brick, steel, and glass, particularly in colder regions where concrete is less practical. The emphasis is always on revealing structural elements and materials. Iconic examples include Boston City Hall and the Yale School of Architecture.
From the very start of the Brutalist movement jewelry designers began interpreting this stye into their pieces. Like its architectural counterpart, Brutalist jewelry emphasizes bold shapes and raw materials. These striking pieces often feature geometric or freeform organic designs. Stones like amethyst, aventurine, onyx, tiger’s eye, and lapis—frequently left unpolished—add to their dramatic, unrefined appeal.
Designers such as Guy Vidal and Robert Larin from Canada, David Andersen and Matti J. Hyvarinen from Scandinavia, and James Parker and John M. Morgan from the United States were pioneers of this style. Israel, Mexico, Brazil, and Italy also produced exceptional examples. Over time, even mainstream costume jewelry brands like Trifari, Panetta, and Kenneth Jay Lane embraced the style, adapting it for a broader audience.
This Robert Larin pewter necklace exemplifies Brutalist design with its textured, raw look and dimensional composition.
This bold Tiger’s Eye ring captures the essence of Brutalism with its organic, open-work mounting that echoes natural forms.
Two brass bracelets, one by Dutra and another unsigned, showcase the complexity and skill of this design style. Dutra’s bracelet features a raw amethyst stone framed by folded brass, while the unsigned piece offers its own intricate take on Brutalist geometry with the raw edges and almost burned look.
This sterling silver and aventurine necklace by Scandanavian jewelry designer Peter Wilhjelm Nielsen offers a unique spin on Brutalism, with its pendant design inset in a silver dish that adds depth and contrast.
Kenneth Jay Lane’s “stick” necklace, finished in bronze, is a high-impact design that distills the Brutalist aesthetic into an accessible yet striking form.
Brutalist architecture fell out of favor by the late 1970s due to poorly executed projects and substandard materials. The design style’s association with government buildings, public housing, and urban renewal projects didn’t help. The perceived coldness, alienation, and functionality issues turned the public against Brutalism. There is a debate right now in Washington, DC, about what to do with all of the Brutalist federal buildings that are half-empty.
Forever controversial, Brutalism is not for the faint of heart. But those who embrace its unapologetic boldness will discover a world of architectural artistry reimagined as wearable art.
Shop our Brutalist Jewelry Collection and add a piece of history to your wardrobe.
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