1970s Napier Bird’s Nest Jewelry Set | Necklace, Earrings & Ring

The Beginnings

Napier began in 1878 as The E. A. Bliss Company in North Attleboro, Massachusetts, producing gilt watch chains for men. In 1890, the company relocated to Meriden, Connecticut, where it remained a cornerstone of American manufacturing for over a century. In 1920, under the leadership of James H. Napier, the firm became The Napier-Bliss Company. By 1922, it had adopted the name The Napier Co.

James Napier

James Napier played a visionary role in the company’s evolution. He wasn’t a designer, but he pushed Napier to the forefront of fashion by encouraging his team to study trends in Europe—a rare move for an American brand at the time. Early design leadership from Frederick W. Rettenmeyer helped guide Napier through the 1930s and ’40s, establishing a foundation of craftsmanship and style.

Wartime Production

During both World Wars, Napier halted jewelry production to manufacture medals and war-related items for the U.S. government. However, in the decades that followed, the company made a remarkable comeback.

The Glory Years

By the 1950s and ’60s, Napier jewelry filled department store counters across America, offering well-made, stylish pieces at an accessible price point.

In the 1970s, designer Eugene Bertolli brought a sculptural sensibility to the brand, creating standout designs like the Bird’s Nest set—now a favorite among collectors. His bold, modernist creations helped define Napier’s aesthetic in that era.

Legacy

As one of the first truly modern American corporations, Napier combined innovative business practices with cutting-edge design. The Meriden plant closed in 1999, the same year the brand was acquired by Victoria & Company. Today, Napier is owned by the Jones Apparel Group. While new pieces are still produced overseas, collectors continue to seek out the original American-made designs for their quality, creativity, and enduring appeal.